A Complete Guide to Island Peak Climbing

‘thrills with exciting adventure on top stunning Island Peak with sweeping mountain panorama’


Island Peak Climbing leads you to daring adventure atop 6,160 m and 20,328 ft high, offering stunning panorama of whole Khumbu Himal with mighty Mt. Everest 8,848m), Mt. Lhotse (8,516 m), Mt. Nuptse (7,855m), Mt. Pumori (7,161 m), Amadablam (6,812 m), Kangtenga (6,782 m), Tharmarserku (6,623 m), Kwangde (6,011 m), as far towards east looking at world’s 5th highest Mt. Makalu (8,463 m) includes Lobuje Peak (6,119 m) with Pokhalde Peak (5,806 m).

Island Peak also called Imjatse Himal due to its location within scenic and beautiful Imjatse valley situated south of Everest and Lhotse, North East of majestic peak Amadablam and other range of mountains.

One of the most popular trekking peaks of Nepal Himalaya, located within high Khumbu valley of Everest region and Nepal Far North Mid East Himalaya, a magnificent peak that looks like an island placed in the midst of high Imjatse valley, thus the name Island came which is commonly used than Imja-Tse Himal.

Island Peak Climbing can be done in several ways, either heading straight for the summit taking shorter days, or using much acclimatization days with visit to Everest Base Camp and climb of scenic Kalapathar before the final ascent on top Island Peak.

Other high routes takes to Gokyo valley through Cho or Tsho-La pass at above 5,367 m and then trekking towards Island peak base camp walking past Dingboche and Chhukung last human settlement.

The climb of Island Peak grade mostly used from French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Systems as PD + which means ‘Per Difficule’ a straightforward climb of less technical effort with some technical difficulty on route to its summit top.

For Island peak climb, where all people have to be in good spirit, on this climb where all types of interested trekkers and adventurer can join in, with nice and sound health, physically fit with some past experience on rocks and ice climb will be a great support to make the climb a great success.

Way to Island Peak Base Camp and Climb

The best and popular way to reach the acclaimed destinations around high Khumbu valley within Everest region, taking a swift short flight from the capital Kathmandu to land at Lukla airport, a smaller planes either Dornier or Twin Otter can be similar types of other aircraft models which is 16 to 18 seated where you can view stunning panorama of Himalaya range of peaks with Mt. Everest during 35 minutes flight.

From Lukla where the airport named after legendry mountaineers late Tenzing and Hillary who first climbed on top Mt. Everest in 1953. Lukla a Sherpa town at an altitude of 2,820 m high where walks leads to number of nice farm Sherpa villages, encountering prayer monuments called Mani Walls and spinning bells along with views of peaks.

Where walk follows glacial Dudh Kosi River crossing several bridges past Phakding and Monjo villages to enter into Sagarmatha National Park (Sagarmatha for Everest in Nepali while local Sherpa calls as Chomolungma which means ‘Great Mother’ in both languages), from here into serene woodland of tall rhododendron, pines and oaks tree lines facing views as walk climbs to Namche Bazaar.

At Namche Bazaar with rest day for short hike to explore local Sherpa culture of immense interest interwoven with Buddhism religions and walk to view-points to support acclimatization on this altitude at 4,440 m and above.

From Namche heading into more scenic areas at Thyangboche Monastery surrounded by chain of mountains with views of Everest and magnificent Amadablam with other adjoining peaks, a beautiful spot within green alpine woodland.

At Thyangboche visit its colorful monastery of great religious importance, and then heading past tree lines to sheer wilderness to reach into Imjatse Valley, encircled by amphitheater of high peaks with clear views of Island Peak in the midst of beautiful Imjatse vally, where Dingboche located.

With time for another rest day and acclimatization heading at Dingboche with many good lodges, from here heading towards east with overnight at Chukung the last human settlement with few nice lodges to stay.

After Chukung overnights in tents with camping facilities with separate kitchen unit of cook-kitchen staff and guides to accompany and leading you all the way to the summit of Island Peak and safely back.

Walking leads into moraine and glaciers around the areas known as Parshya Gyab on the very foot of Island Peak or Imjatse Himal, where climbing starts next early morning before the crack of dawn using Advance or High Camp to make the climb more accessible and promising.

Climbing Routes to the summit of Island Peak

After much preparation and practice with some exercise, getting ready for the Big Day! As well the main highlight of the adventure, after base camp at above 4,970 m and Advance or High Camp at 5,400 m, following your lead guide to cross a broad open gully, covered with glacier and avoiding serac and crevasses climb towards north over snow covered scree in a margin between a glaciers to reach a top ridge.

As strenuous climb carries o to cross a gully with some stone and ice-fall dangers, a steep snow and ice ramps leads you on top 100 meters (300 ft) to the main summit of Island Peak, at the top after accomplishing a great feat and adventure.

Where you will get blessed with awesome panorama facing Mt. Everest 8,848 m, Lhotse 8,501 m, Mt. Amadablam 6,856 m, Mt. Makalu 8, 463 m, Chamlang and Baruntse peaks, after feeling in high spirit with successful climb, descend safely back to base camp.

At Base Camp packing and clearing the camps as well picking up the garbage, leaving nothing except your memories and foot-prints, all garbage to be handed to SPCC (Sagarmatha Pollution Control), or bring back and dump at designated disposal sites.

Seasons for Island Peak Climb

Nearly all season of the year suitable as per your time and holidays for the adventure, except the monsoon months from July to mid September months the wet seasons in and around Southern Himalaya region with rains and wet-cloudy days.

March to May will be ideal time for the climb of island Peak with clear morning till afternoon; can get cloudy in the afternoon with cooler morning and night time.

September to December another best months for the adventure to Island Peak Climb, although days will be much shorter with sunlight, but mostly clear during day with starry nights, will be cold with freezing temperatures during morning and night time without counting the wind-chill factor.

The climb requires some reserves days as well if weather is unfavorable to reach the summit, where you can attempt next day as per weather permitting to be in safe side with precaution measures.

Island Peak Climbing Equipment Lists

Plastic Boot                                         a pair
Crampons                                            a pair
Ice Axe                                                  one
Harness                                               one
Carabineer or Karabiner                    two each
Snow Gaiters                                       a pair
Snow / Sun Glass                                 one each
Warm Gloves                                      a pair
Wind Proof Jacket & Trouser.             a set each
Down Jacket                                        one each
Down sleeping bags                            one each with inner linear
Main Ropes                                         200m ( 50m per person) as per the peak chosen
Snow Bar                                             2 / 4 pieces depending upon group size.
Ski Pole (optional)                               one each

Following equipment and gear can be hired or bought in Kathmandu and as well in Namche Bazaar or at Chukung, where your guide will advice you.